By Auguste Escoffier
If the artwork of Cookery in all its branches weren't under-
going a technique of evolution, and if its canons may be once
and for ever mounted, as are these of convinced medical operations
and mathematical techniques, the current paintings may have no
raison d'etre; inasmuch as there exist already numerous excellent
culinary text-books within the English language. yet everything
is so risky in those instances of growth at any rate, and social
customs and strategies of lifestyles regulate so quickly, few years
now suffice to alter thoroughly the face of usages which at
their inception bade reasonable to survive the age — so enthusiastically
were they welcomed through the public.
In regard to the traditions of the festal board, it truly is but
twenty years in the past because the ancestral English customs all started to
make manner ahead of the more moderen equipment, and we needs to glance to the
great impetus given to traveling by means of steam traction and naviga-
tion, for you to account for the slow yet unquestionable
In the wake of the call for got here the availability. Palatial hotels
were equipped, luxurious eating places have been opened, either one of which
offered their buyers luxuries undreamt of theretofore in such
Modern society reduced in size the behavior of participating of light
suppers in those locations, after the theatres of the Metropolis
had closed; and the well-to-do started to flock to them on
Sundays, with a view to supply their servants the necessary weekly
rest. And, because eating places enable of watching and of being
observed, considering they're eminently tailored to the showing of
magnificent attire, it used to be no longer lengthy prior to they entered into
the lifetime of Fortune's favourites.
But those new-fangled conduct needed to be met by means of novel methods
of Cookery — ^better tailored to the actual atmosphere in
which they have been to be practised. The admirable productions
popularised by means of the previous Masters of the Culinary artwork of the pre-
ceding Century didn't turn into the sunshine and extra frivolous
atmosphere of eating places ; have been, actually, ill-suited to the brisk
waiters, and their buyers who in basic terms had eyes for one another.
The pompous splendour of these bygone dinners, served in
the majestic dining-halls of Manors and Palaces, by means of liveried
footmen, was once half and parcel of the etiquette of Courts and
It is eminently fitted to country dinners, that are in sooth
veritable ceremonies, owning their ritual, traditions, and —
one may possibly even say — their excessive monks ; however it is a trifling hin-
drance to the trendy, swift carrier. The advanced and
sometimes heavy menus will be unwelcome to the hyper-
critical appetites so universal these days; therefore the necessity of a
radical switch not just within the culinary arrangements themselves,
but within the preparations of the menus, and the service.
Circumstances ordained that I might be one of many movers
in this revolution, and i should still deal with the kitchens of
two institutions that have performed so much to convey it about.
I accordingly enterprise to think e-book containing a record
of all of the adjustments that have come into being in kitchen paintings —
changes whereof i'm in a superb half author^may have some
chance of an excellent reception by the hands of the general public, i.e.
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Additional info for A guide to modern cookery
Their utility is nil 14—VARIOUS GLAZES The various glazes of meat, fowl, game, and fish are merely stock reduced to the point of viscosity. Their uses are legion. Occasionally they serve in decking dishes with a brilliant and unctuous coating which makes them sightly; at other times they may help to strengthen the consistence of a sauce or other culinary preparation, while again they may be used as sauces proper after they have been correctly creamed or buttered. Glazes are distinguished from essences by the fact that the latter are only prepared with the object of extracting all the flavour of the product under treatment, whereas the former are, on the contrary, constituted by the whole base of the substance They therefore have not only its savour, but also itself.
Gests itself, 57_VENISON SAUCE Prepare a Poivrade sauce for game, as explained in No. 50. Finish this sauce with two tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly, previously dissolved, and mixed with five tablespoonfuls of THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 33 cream per pint of sauce. This addition of cream and redcurrants must be made away from the fire. fresh Serve this sauce with big ground-game. Small White and Compound Sauces. 58—AMERICAN SAUCE " prepared "k I'Am^ricaine This sauce consists of lobster No. 939).
Of pur6e and onequarter pint of tomato juice, and reduce by a fifth. Strain the gravy through linen. This gravy is for butcher's meat. THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 29 43— LYONNAISE SAUCE Finely mince two oz. of onions and brown them slightly in two oz. of butter. Moisten with one-quarter pint of white wine and as much vinegar; almost entirely reduce the liquid; add one and one-half pints of clear half-glaze, and set to cook slowly for half an hour. Rub the sauce through a tammy. B. The onion may be left in the sauce or not, according to the preparation for which it is intended and the taste of the consumer.